I found this fire Truck

[robslikker]

Hi Guys,

My father in law has had the truck below for 9 years and never started it (he got it with his property when he bought it and it was running at the time).

He showed it to me today and we tried to fire it up. What we found so far:
- Will kick over and idle for a short time with start ya bastard""
- Brake hydraulics need attention (pedal goes straight to floor)
- Clutch hydraulics need attention (pedal has no tension other than return spring).
- the body is in good nick almost no rust.

I'm trying to figure out if we spend the time to get it going. I'm thinking at the very least we will need to:
- Wash out fuel tanks
- recondition carb (would I be able to find a kit)
- recondition master cylinder and wheel cylinders
- sort out the clutch.

Also I need to figure out what all the extra levers do and what the go is with the air lines (I don't know what they do). I'm downloading manuals now but wondering what I can do to find spares for the above items.

Check out the pics so far:

[Carzee]

Looks like a great find. Chassis number or rebuild details?

[Bluebell One-eight]

The old dear won't keep running because the fuel has gone "OFF", drain and refill with fresh petrol. The brakes are air over hydraulic and the pedal can be pushed right down any time. Check the master cyl which is located on the R/H chassis rail behind the cab. Top up if necessary. Once you get it started and build up air pressure then check if the brakes work. The kit number for the brake M/C is PBR K3X if needed. The clutch M/C is best replaced with a new one , I got one off ebay for about $25 posted a couple of years ago. slave cyl, if cast iron reco is probably ok otherwise a new one as well. The carby should be filled with fuel and left for a while before use... to allow the accelerator pump cup to soften. The carb is a BXUV-3 if you need a kit. You can prime the fuel system without cranking the engine with the lever on the fuel pump ( just like a diesel) The levers are: closest to the driver's seat gear shift, Transfer case (with trigger ) behind them on floor winch PTO ( short lever with lockout trigger ) Must be forward ( disengaged ) unless the winch is in use. winch clutch ( on back wall of cab) must be engaged unless paying out cable ( the cable could unwind itself in not engaged) That should be enough to keep you busy for awhile!

[2short]

Looks mint. 

[robslikker]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to get it towed back to my place and get cracking.

When it's here I'll post the details from the compliance plate.

How cool is it to have a truck with a hatch above the passenger seat

[Ravvin]

It's a nice looking MK3.
Something you are likely to find once you move it is that the water pump seal is likely to fail. Just keep an eye on it once you run the engine as water will run down the block and drip off in weird and misleading places. You can get the rebuild kits through Iveco. They will probably not know about it, but they have them. The impeller is part number 858333R1. The seal kit with with the shaft, bearing and seal is now made by a mob in Victoria called Auto Surplus and the part number is WS588 Water Pump Kit. Iveco and other specialist parts places can get them in.
Here are some notes I made while fixing up mine. Hope it helps.

The door hinge pins are 8.75mm x 65mm. (11/32” x 2.5”). Common Ford F100 size. Just need to cut/grind them to length.
Distributor cap no. for MK3 is 1235522123 (Bosch)
Rotor MK3 & MK4 1234332072 (Bosch)
Points for Mk3 1237013008 (Bosch)
Ryco R2084P oil filter, but you can get the genuine Inter one from most Iveco truck dealers and it has better fitting O'rings. Part number 855118 R92.
Fan belt. ½” top width, 7/16” thick, 40°, 46” inside circle. Ryco Top Cog 20A1155.
Compressor belt. Goodyear B51.
If your clutch slave cylinder looks like the one below, you can get a new one for about $38 from Repco. It is a Protex P5140.



The clutch master cylinder is made by PBR and once again, Repco can get them or a compatible copy. The part number is P4977.
That clutch system can be a real pain to bleed. If you want a laugh, read some of my thread and what I have done so far. There's a section about the clutch that starts on page 4, about halfway down.

http://remlr.com/forum/index.php?topic=2816.0

Many of the parts for these trucks are still around. Just ask here on the forum and one of us will know where to get them.

I did some editing of the workshop and parts manuals to make it a lot easier to find things. I added an index and rewrote the Supplier Code section.
If you want to download a copy, here's the link.

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=D48DD4163CA01885!955&authkey=!AGT61GNxSeVLbFU&ithint=folder%2cpdf

Hope something here helps. 

[robslikker]

Wow,

That's great information, and the restoration thread is a great read. Well done.

I have another question, what kind of tow truck did you use for transport. I imagine these don't fit on a normal flatbed truck.

Rob

[Ravvin]

Yes they do. Mine came home on a regular tilt-tray truck.
When you ring for one, let them know it is 5.1t, 2.5m wide and whatever the length is overall.
I can't recall, offhand, and I don't have my manuals here at work, but I know the F1 6x6 was 6.5m and the MK3 & 4 was shorter, so maybe 6.1m.

Greg.

[john.k]

Its amazing how many people buy properties with old trucks in the shed and set no value on them.A guy i worked with got two prewar Inters,and without telling anyone,rang the local scrappies to take them.Regards John.

[D mac]

I know where that truck came from.
Wooragee is about 10 K's from Beechworth towards Wodonga.
I can remember that truck being there many moons ago.
The Wooragee fire brigade still exists.

Cheers D mac