Inter 170-952

[Chazza]

Nice write-up Rav I am enjoying it immensely! 

I have to work outside sometimes and spreading a cheap-and-nasty blue plastic tarp, helps to keep track of dropped parts; I also use a folded-flat windscreen box to lie on.

If you need new tac holders send me a PM; there is an advertisement for them in the vendors thread.

Looking forward to your restoration,

Cheers Charlie

[Diana Alan]

Hi Greg

The Mk4 and F1 had gal sides (and gal wheel rims) but they are all interchangeable with the Mk3. 

Note: When looking for sides you will find that many of the gal sides don't have the pigtails that you use to tie the tarp to and your Mk3 tray only has the rings not the rope rails found on most of the later trays.  On my Mk3 I ended up with 3 right hand sides (2 gal) and 1 rusty left hand side, so I had a local fabricator make up a pair of left hand sides using the fittings from the two rusty sides that I had.  We then got them galvanised, the only problem is that the panel warped a little from the gal bath.

In relation to your jerrycan frame, get it sand blasted, looking at it you shouldn't have much trouble restoring the missing divider using a length of flat bar.

Diana

[Ravvin]

Well, one good thing about this project is that I am definitely learning new skills. After nearly destroying my mower while knocking the chest-high grass down,
I remembered I had to free up the air inflation valve so I could connect my compressor to the air system and find the leaks. The Inox I sprayed on it really worked well.
I was able to get a finger behind the tap and get it to move. From there, I just opened and shut it a few times and it freed up and now opens smoothly.
Unfortunately, while doing this I noticed the air line was very rusty. I followed the lines under the truck and I am going to have to replace everything under the tray.
Whatever ran through and ate the metal channel in the tray also just about dissolved the air and brake lines. I'll go buy a pipe bender and a good flaring tool tomorrow.
Then I just have to work out where to get what seems to be 1/2" OD steel tubing. Luckily everything is still there so I just have to cut the lines at the brass fittings and bend new ones up to match.
I tried undoing one of the brass fittings at the air inflation valve that I had sprayed with Inox yesterday and it started to undo easily.
Unfortunately the steel pipe has grown into the brass nut and it will twist off if I try to undo it further that 1/4 of a turn. No chance of freeing it. Its just too rusted.
I also took the ball valve off the air reservoir to see if I can free it up. Approximately 2 cups of water ran out. It looked crystal clear, but still, it can't be good to be in there for so long.
I think I better get the tray off so I can get at the fuel, air & brake lines more easily.
Tomorrow I will be rebuilding the clutch master and slave, flushing and bleeding them, then degreasing and pressure washing the engine and gearbox.
I'll finally be able to check the engine number against the REMLR database.
Oh, and here's something I found while mowing. For Tassy, this is HUGE. They are usually about the length of a finger joint.

[Diana Alan]

<snip>Oh, and here's something I found while mowing. For Tassy, this is HUGE. They are usually about the length of a finger joint.

Eek

Maybe it came over from Adelaide?  Don't let Biosecurity Tasmania hear! 

[Phoenix]

That is one big frog!  normally they are tiny here!

[Ravvin]

Bled the clutch so I could move it this morning. Horrible milky yellow gunk came out.
The master cylinder shows signs of leaking at the seal so I will replace it with a new PBR part I got today, rebuild it and keep it as a spare.
I have to strip and clean the slave cylinder, then take it in and they will match the parts up for me. The MK4 RPS shows the body was from IH
but some of the seals and dust boots on the brakes and clutch are Patton's Brake Replacement parts, now known as PBR.
Once I find the appropriate rebuild kit I will post it to make it easier for others.
I spent most of the morning running around trying to find someone who could supply 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" seamless steel tubing for the air, brake and fuel lines.
It looks like I found a supplier and he is very helpful. Even offered to let me use his hydraulic pipe bender if I couldn't bend the 1/2" stuff by hand. I'm just waiting on a call back with prices.
I'm getting frustrated with it. I can't seem to find where to start. I wanted to get the brakes working. That lead to the discovery that I had to sort the air system out first.
To do that I need the spare wheel and fuel tanks off so I can get at things. I've soaked all the nuts and bolts with Inox so maybe tomorrow I will get them undone.
Every time I try to do anything from underneath, I get rust and wood splinters dropping on me from the tray. So I need the tray off.
Oh, while underneath it I was trying to find a pipe that I could take off to get an internal measurement to work out the wall thickness.
I found the pipes coming from the air actuator on the winch. I got a photo but its a bit hard to make out. That is the pipe coming in from the left.



 At some stage, someone has replaced the lines running down to the tractor protection valve with flexible air line from a shop compressor.
Tomorrow I am going to pull the bungs out of the cab floor and wash it out. There is thick layer of dirt all through the cab. Its easily 1/2" thick in places.
I have the pressure washer so I will splash some truckwash around and hose it all out. The original rubber mats are in great condition.
I'm taking those metal sheets off the sides of the tray. I don't know why they used such heavy steel. It's 2.5mm plate. Must weigh a ton.
I'll use them on the ground to lay on while working under it. Should squash the grass nicely. While I have the pressure washer I am going to blast
the loose rust and paint off the chassis. Less junk to drop on me while working. 

Greg.

[Ravvin]

Hi all.
Got a bit done today. Found more issues on the way. I opened the passengers door to take the fuel drum out and the top hinge let go.
Luckily I was able to grab it before it twisted and did any damage. Those doors are HEAVY! I unbolted the bottom hinge and took the door off
and found that the pin in the bottom hinge was broken also, although still acting as a pivot.
After much hammering on punches, swearing and applications of Inox, I finally tried drilling it out. The pilot hole was off-centre, (of course I meant to do that),
and each size up in drills got closer to the sides. Once the hole dot large enough that it almost touched the side of the hinge body,
I was able to use a punch to collapse the thin side of the pin. After that, it gave up and I was able to punch it out easily.



I don't know what they are made of. As soon as I gave this one a tap, the paint flaked off the head of the pin in one piece, leaving it a sort of shiny grey colour.
My vice grips couldn't grip or mark it, yet it drilled like a soft steel. As you can see, it was 65mm long from the base of the cap to the tip and the micrometer says
that the main shaft is 8.75mm in diameter. Does anyone know of a compatible pin that I could get? I checked online and there are loads that look similar,
mostly for Toyotas and Falcons, but none of them list the actual measurements.
I still have to do the bottom hinge, but I'm having trouble getting 2 of the dome head screws out. 3 came out with no problem, but the other 2 are really tight.
I bought an impact driver from Supercheap, as they were all that was open. After 3 hits, I felt it move. Unfortunately, it was the tip of the flat screwdriver bit that was twisted.
I tried the other 2 flat blade bits in the kit and managed to twist them all. Typical mild steel chinese junk. I'll take it back and get a real set Monday. I should have known better.
I got a metre of galv pipe to put over the end of the wheel nut spanner as the 2 nuts on the spare wheel carrier were reluctant to come off.
I got them off and managed to free up the spare wheel carrier, which was seized. With the spare wheel off, I can get underneath easily now so I can work on removing the air reservoir and piping.
 I have to work out how much of each pipe size to order. It seems the main pipes from the compressor to the tank and from the tank to the tractor protection valve are all 1/2".
Other fittings are a mixture of 3/8" and 1/4". The MK4 RPS shows many of the pipes as being a different size to what's on my MK3,
so I am going to have to forget the book and just make new copies of what is already fitted.
I bought a roll of emery tape and found that if I sand the air pipe behind the brass nut, the fittings undo and seem less prone to twist the steel airlines.
If I can get the old ones off with minimal distortion, it should make it a lot easier to shape the new ones accurately.

Greg

[dkg001]

Very interesting to read your progress, a lot of these trucks found a post service life as spray carts on farms and some of the chemicals which were used were very corrosive. you are fortunate that the cab has survived, I would probably have a spare set of door hinges if you need them.

[Ravvin]

Thanks, I appreciate the offer, but unless I stuff something up with the other hinges, I should be right. I realised that any parts for this age truck would be in Imperial.
When I converted the sizes to inches it turns out that the pins are 11/32" diameter. This seems to be a very common Ford part,
although most of the listings are for 4" and longer pins. I'll buy a set locally and cut them down. Those dome-head screws are going to be an issue though.
I guess, at the worst, I'll have to carefully grind the heads off and then try to get the remains out once I get the hinge out. Also, once it's out, I can try heating it up.

[Chazza]

Those dome-head screws are going to be an issue though.
I guess, at the worst, I'll have to carefully grind the heads off and then try to get the remains out once I get the hinge out. Also, once it's out, I can try heating it up.

If all the hinge parts are steel, it won't hurt to heat the screw heads to a an orange-heat and let them cool - use an oxy torch, you should be able to hire one if you don't want to own one.

Alternatively, it is less damaging if the impact driver and heat fail, to drill the heads off with a succession of drill bits, gradually increasing in size. If this is done well, it usually leaves the thread projecting, which can be gripped with vice grips to extract it,

Cheers Charlie

[Ravvin]

Thanks for that.
I had removed the 3 screws from the face of the door and it was the 2 on the edge that were seized. With the 3 out, I was able to wiggle the hinge a bit and got a heap of Inox into them,
then did what I should have originally and took the panel off the door and squirted them on the inside. I bought a new set of vice grips and was able to lock onto the head really tightly and
managed to get them both moving slightly. Not much room to turn, so it took ages, but I got them out.
The hinge pin had snapped between the head and the middle section of the hinge. This meant that I couldn't get the 2 pieces apart to drive the broken bits out like I did with the lower hinge.
The head was slightly raised above the hinge body so I was able to use a narrow cold chisel to wedge it up far enough to lever it out. I've soaked it in Inox and tried to drive the broken section out,
but I only had a little hobby vice and I can't clamp it firmly enough to hold it still. I tried using a center punch to dent the bottom of the pin so I could drill it out but it flattened the tip on the first hit.
I'm guessing the end may be hardened. I was able to touch the punch up and it marked the broken end no problem, so I will take it into work tomorrow to use the drill press and big workshop vice.

Oxy gear is something I have to look into. There's a full set of hoses, regs, torches and tools at work that I can use, but I have to get cylinders. Not sure what the deal is with that.
I know the local BOC place supplies and refills them, but I'm betting the rental they charge is pretty high. There's another company that will sell you cylinders outright, then you just pay to have
them refilled but you have to get them tested every so many years. For the little amount of use it would get, I don't know what it the better option for me.
I'm also looking at a 20T hydraulic/pneumatic press being sold secondhand nearby at a good price. May be overkill for a hinge, but should be good if I need to press out things like spring pins.

I measured the metal on the doors and roof today so I can get some sheet for patches. I was pretty surprised when it came in at 1.6mm. That should make it easier to weld, even for a total beginner like me.
I used the pressure washer to blast all the wheels, chassis rails and where I could get at things underneath easily. It looks like I have 4 regular rims and 1 galvanised one.
On the chassis rails, the top coat of olive drab came off so easily that I suspect they did nothing more than a quick hose-down before painting it. I now have a Deep Bronze Green chassis,
where the rust hasn't removed it. They must have really done a thorough job of prepping it when they originally painted it. I had a go at the engine and gearbox, but the caked on grease
and gunk hardly budged. I'll have to spray it all with some heavy-duty degreaser and leave it a bit before trying again. The transfer case seems to have only ever been Olive Drab as it went
back to bare silver, where there was no grease and gunk.

Greg

[Ravvin]

Well I got a bit done today, and found a few more issues.

I can now confirm that my engine number is AGD 282.12451. My chassis number is 4X4 771, so my original ARN was definitely 170 - 952.

I got the radiator and oil cooler out. Something to remember is that even though you have drained it out through the small tap on the front, there is still a lot in there.
I found this out while underneath it, tugging on the bottom radiator hose which held on strongly before letting go all at once. The stuff that came out was the colour
and consistency of pumpkin soup. The outside of the radiator looks great. There's only a few fins that have crumbled, and they are right at the top where I found someone
had tried to solder a split seam on the header tank. I separated the radiator and oil cooler from the outer mounting frame and spent 15 mins flushing the orange goop out.
While doing this, I found a great big chunk of silicon and 2 large pieces of solder. They would easily be the size of 50c pieces. Looking inside, it still appears very orange,
but I can see down the core tubes and they look good. I'll drop it into the local radiator place that we use for our work vehicles. They are going to chemically clean it inside and out,
then repair the seam in the header tank and etch prime it all for me. They were going to just paint it black like they usually do but offered to use my rattle packs of etch primer
and Protec Camo Green. That will save me having to redo it. I have the weekend to sand back, prime and paint the radiator mounting frame and the front of the engine area.
While its out I am going to degrease and pressure wash the engine area.

Now that I can see in there, I found that I have a single oil cooler hose. It has a 90° elbow and is screwed to the rear outlet on the oil pressure relief adapter and a straight fitting
on the other end which is looped to the front fitting, bypassing the oil cooler. I can't find any details or diagrams showing the correct setup. I am guessing that the hose I have used
to go from the rear outlet, which is shown in the EMEI as the Outlet, to the bottom fitting on the oil cooler. This would put the elbow on the block end and the straight fitting on the oil cooler.
I am guessing that the hose from the top fitting on the oil cooler would have a 90° elbow on both ends. Can anyone tell me if this is correct and that the Outlet on the block, (rear fitting),
runs to the bottom of the oil cooler, and that the top fitting of the oil cooler runs to the Inlet on the block,(front fitting)?

I'll pull the thermostat out and flush the block before connecting everything back up. Would anyone have a current listing for a compatible thermostat and radiator cap?

Thanks.

Greg

[Mick_Marsh]

You are really doing well with this Inter. Thoroughly enjoying the thread.
Just a quick question, where did you get it from? It wasn't the one at Naracorte, was it?

[Ravvin]

Unfortunately, yes it was.

[Ravvin]

Well, I got a bit done today.
After running around town half the morning chasing filters and hinge pins, I managed to drive the broken pin out of the second passengers side door hinge.
I'd tried a press and heating it but what finally worked was soaking it all in a diesel. It was still incredibly tight, but it eventually came out. I was then able to attack
both hinges with the wire wheel, giving them a couple of coats of etch primer and finally giving them 2 coats of Camo Green.



They came out pretty good. They just have a bolt dropped in them to hold things together so I can open and shut the door to keep the weather out.
I found that the F100, F150 & F250 series used a 11/32" hinge pin that was 4" long and has almost the same head as the original IH ones.
I tried getting some locally but the Ford dealers will only sell me complete hinges and none of the other parts places carried anything.
They actually suggested eBay. Ebay it is then. I have a guy here in Aus happy to send me 4 but I won't get them till after the New Year. Oh well. At least I can close it up again.

Once I had the hinges done, I started on the radiator support frame. The upright sections were in very good condition.
They still had a thick layer of red primer on them. The heavy bottom section that holds water, dirt and dead bugs from the radiator was very rusty.
I got into the whole thing with the wire wheel and took it all back to bare metal. The bottom rusty section looks like it has a rough finish,
as it has a lot of light surface pitting, but with a couple of coats of etch primer and Camo Green on it, should last a few more years.



I thought I would get in and flush some of the orange slurry out of the engine while the radiator is away getting resoldered. I carefully aimed the
bottom radiator hose away from me so I wouldn't get soaked, turned the hose on full bore and stuck it in the top hose. Maybe next time I will remember
to take the thermostat out first. It was pretty messy. And it didn't taste good.
When I took the thermostat out, I found the hose was about half blocked just above there with some sort of hard rust encrustation. When I dug it out with a screwdriver,
I found it crumbled down to a sort of sandy grit. Not sure what it's from. The water I flushed through the block only took a few mins to clear up. Both radiator hoses are extremely stiff.
I'll probably have to replace those too.
The MK4 RPS lists the thermostat as IH part number 889622R92. The one in mine is actually 108120R91 and gated 12-1973.
Either the MK4 had a different thermostat, or they changed it between when mine got its thermostat fitted and June 83, when the RPS was published.
My thermostat also has 170 stamped on it. I'm guessing that's the opening temp in °F.
Once I get the radiator back I will refit it and run a dose of radiator flush through it all. Once that's done its job, I'll put a good anti-freeze/antiboil mix in.
I doubt it's ever had it before.
Tomorrow I will pull the seats out to fix them up and keep them dry as I intend to wash the entire cab out. Once that's done I can degrease and hose down the engine from the top and below.
When its a bit cleaner in there I can start measuring up brake, clutch, fuel and air lines, so I can order the tubing in.

Greg.