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Vehicles for Sale / Re: Vehicles Spotted for Sale
« Last post by Mick_Marsh on Today at 01:52:15 PM »
Haflinger in Shannons Melbourne auction, is it military?
Doesn't look it.
Mmmmm........ lot 1, a magic carpet.
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I intend to put in some extra filters .... with quick change elements so they are quick to change if they block up whilst on a run.

There are filter heads available for spin-on filters that replace the Sedimenter and/or Delphi/Ryco filter head, but filter elements are 4 times the price of the Delphi/Ryco type. I guess that's the price of convenience.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FFK1221-Spin-On-Fuel-Filter-Water-Separator-Head-Kit-w-1-2-UNF-ports-Baldwin-/272475977709?hash=item3f70d577ed:g:aVUAAOSw1vlUr6Ky
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Delphi 296 filter is the same size as a Ryco 2132.

Also Baldwin BF825
Donaldson P556245
Sakura FC1702
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Dennis M's Shed / Re: my stuff
« Last post by 303Gunner on Today at 12:16:54 PM »
Dennis, there is nothing nicer than a little pile of freshly machined fittings in clean metal. But as some of your pictures show, atmospheric moisture will slowly begin to coat exposed metal with rust. Do you have any methods in mind to preserve bare surfaces until (in time) you finish them with paint or other surface coatings?

I'd would like to see the rods and valve motion as polished oiled steel, but other large items like the frame might like to be phosphated or parkerised before it gets too hard to get into any nooks and crannys with steel wool.
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Vehicles for Sale / Re: Vehicles Spotted for Sale
« Last post by FFRMAN on Today at 12:13:40 PM »
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does a delphi cartridge fit the ryco and vice-versa?

Delphi -
Dimensions for the CAV filter assembly are
- overall height 175mm
- overall width 117mm
- overall depth 95mm
- mounting holes are 11.7mm ID on 49-54mm centres
- mounting pad is 73.5mm wide

can't find Ryco dimensions

My assumption is they would be the same and thus interchangable
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Dennis M's Shed / Re: my stuff
« Last post by DennisM on Today at 10:52:08 AM »
Thank you chaps for your compliments, but I have always regarded myself as a rank amateur with my hobbies, I strive for the best that I can do, that's all I can do, I did manage to snap an image of the rivets in the floor plate of the tender (as I had forgot to do so in the previous post)

see where the blind silly old git drilled one off line LOL, and later that day I braze welded the rear stiffening plate, but methinks I should buy a new pair of welding glasses as it looked neat until I chipped off the hard clear flux, anyway it will do the job

Well it's wet cold n miserable here this morning so rather than go down into the freezer aka shed (yesterday it was 5c in there damn cold) I'm adding to my story and I will venture down there after lunch as I have some machining to do on the bogie frames, so here is an overview of some very repetitive work that I have done making small pins for the brake rigging, here is the list off the plan

To start with I didn't have any round bar stock @ 1/4" OD, so I decided to use 1/4" steel hex bar rather than wait days for supply from Bathurst, the supplier is 1st class Oz post is slow, here is the first of 2 at this size

I sometimes wish I had a CNC machine and of course the knowledge on how to with it LOL these pins all 34 of them would have been made in under 10 minutes once the machine was set up, if I told you each pin took approx 14 minutes to make you would think I was crazy, but you can only take small cuts 0.020" at a time as the material pushes away from the tool and it has to finish up at 0.125" with the cross drilled hole @ 1/16"

it looks off center but it isn't, the hex bar was marked against No 1 jaw in the chuck, so out of the lathe when it's down past the hex, marked for length and the cross drilled hole then drill back in the lathe and continue to turn it down to size, very time consuming, here is the first batch, with the larger pins as well

the hex was 300mm (12") that's what left, it will be put to use on something else I'm sure.
The next day after my back had 12 hours rest I was back at it again making the longer ones @ 3/4" in length, same deal very repetitive

this is where they lay in amongst the swarf until all done

I'm fairly fussy about keeping the machine clean n free of metal swarf, so I try to catch it using small trays, yes mad I know LOL
two days later I had finished this was the last of the pins @ 7/16" in length

and here they all are after having the small steel 'tit' removed and heads machined down to 3/32" in length

I have been making myself familiar with items etc on the bogies and I keep looking at the plan when I walk past it

I have made an awful lot of parts for it, but somehow I over looked two levers, one floating n one fixed, so I quickly fixed that shortage

I didn't have any imperial sized steel so I used the closest metric which was 10mm x 3mm, the parts loosely sitting where they hopefully will work LOL

anyway later this afternoon I will be using my older lathe and the mill to machine the bogie frames, I hope I don't stuff up as replacement cast iron bogies wouldn't be cheap today, cheers Dennis

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Well I remembered to do this that's a bonus

and from the top

my reason behind doing this was you can buy CAV type filters anywhere, but maybe not Isuzu, cheers Dennis :)
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What you have written Sixty is spot on, the only way to remove the debris is to take it apart, I generally do it with both tanks full, that way it sorta bleeds itself and with a few pumps on the lifter it is clear of any air, and I also agree that the filter under the lift pump is a sod of a thing, I have small fingers but it's still a sod, cheers Dennis :)
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Some photos.

Our local mechanic (Johnny from http://www.seriesworkshop.com.au ) provided photos of the sedimenter of 50-169 which was auctioned in late 2016. It now belongs to my son Steven.

I am tempted to think either the ADF buys filthy rusty second hand fuel from a third world hellhole OR the privatised fleet maintenance contractors could have been 'forgetting' to clean it during a major service. The amount of crud looks like over 50,000km' worth.

That gunk is 'gladis', a diesel bug, and rust/paint from jerries.

As to why the sedimenter is full....the EMEI (G 109 & 209) state the sedimenter is to be checked/drained via the little bung each service.... In practice, this is bloody useless! Pulling the bung doesnt move the gunk. The centre bolt needs to be undone, and the sedimenter halves removed. Scrub all three sections (dont mix the o-rings as diff sizes). Re-fit. *note if tank is over 1/4, fuel will flow until sedimenter re-fitted/sealed.
The lift pump filter....half the tradies have nfi where its located, and the other half know its a biatch to R&R so dont touch it.
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