Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers

REMLR Member Sheds => REMLR Member Sheds => Topic started by: DetV on April 25, 2018, 08:20:37 PM

Title: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 25, 2018, 08:20:37 PM
Introduction to Spence [51-490 FFR]
Spence - Episode 1

We picked up 51-490 FFR from Minto on Monday and after a quick once over, including check of vital fluids and brief inspection of all the things which went round and round, and the bolts which hold them together, I drove her home. The preceding Friday I visited the local RMS office and secured an unregistered vehicle permit to bring her home, plus drive her in the local ANZAC parade.

I wanted a name for 51-490. My wife considered this Land Rover an unnecessary expense - so for now we will call her Spence. After a few drives, Hemmi changed her mind and suggested that "The Brute" was more appropriate.

Spence The Brute came with a Christmas Tree sticker on her fenders: 6009 - 1st Intelligence Battalion, but no service book. So not yet sure where she has been, but we do know who last owned her and can make some guesses about what she was up to. She had 14423km and 619hrs since her last refurb. This is an average of 23kph, so I guess she negotiated some slow terrain, plus drove the 28v generator a fair bit whilst stationary.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 25, 2018, 08:29:10 PM
On Tuesday I set about a more detailed inspection. I was pleasantly surprised to find:
- all the fluids clear and up to optimum level;
- new looking oil and fuel filters;
- clean air filter;
- no water in fuel filter near fuel tank; and
- main battery dated 03-17 and at optimum electrolyte levels.
I took her to visit a friendly neighbour who had done his electronics apprenticeship at Balcolme with RAEME apprentices. He suggested that 51-470 was probably fully services not long before her assignment to AFM for disposal.

I was also pleased to find a half stocked tool kit, hydraulic jack, red gum jacking block, wheel brace, drag chain and Hella reflector triangle set in the tool boxes.

A major disappointment, however, was to discover the two batteries in the auxiliary compartment on the drivers side at 2.7v and 5.6v and no batteries in the passenger side axillary compartment and with the cables dangling and terminals exposed. I went for an FFR specifically to get the 24v electric system to run my amateur radio gear and beer cooler. This was now at risk.

I took the batteries out and attached them each to a charger. Initially they both accepted only milli amps, however, after a few hours they were accepting 4 to 5 amp - there might be hope for them.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 26, 2018, 04:14:51 PM
24v System
The batteries charged up to a reasonable amount. Static voltages were 12.08v and 12.32v. So I installed them in the driver side compartment and connected them to the distribution box. After opening the circuit breaker on the dist box, the interior light could be switched on/off red/white, and the voltmeter read approx 24v. 

Then it was time to test the generator, so started the engine and gave it a bit of throttle. To my delight the amp meter register between 15-20Amp and the voltmeter on the dist box was reading approx 28v. So pleased that the 28v generator was working.

I intend to use the 24v system to run the Waeco fridge, and a 240v 4kVA inverter. I also want to use it for my UHF CB and amateur radio gear. The latter runs on 13.8v, so I have sourced a  24v->12v 40A and a 24v->13.8v 20A inverters.  The smaller of the two is fully sealed and will be permanently mounted on the back of the 24v dist box. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/24V-to-12V-13-8V-1-5A-5A-10A-15A-20A-30A-40A-DC-DC-Converter/32849244643.html

I would like some Cannon connectors for the 24v leads, however, they are a bit too pricey for me, and one of the 24v Cannon sockets has been cooked so needs to be replaced. I have decided to replace two of the Cannon sockets with these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Military-Metal-Male-3-Pins-Circular-Connector-Y2M-3TK/301751799267
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: STDDIVER on April 26, 2018, 05:13:28 PM
Hi DetV  Welcome to REMLR - It seems you are getting on top of things with the right attitude.  I look forwards to reading your post as it progresses -   Good luck with "Spense" mate

STDDIVER
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: dugite on April 26, 2018, 05:58:16 PM
Yes, welcome to the forum DetV.

As a matter of interest, from the 24v FFR system we run 2 Engels (they really work better on 24v than 12v), and a LED camping light. The LED camping lights work on both 12v and 24v without any add-ons.

As far as connectors go - and yes, cannon connectors would be good, but I just used merits and engels plumbed into the 24v.

I assume your red/white internal light is still on the 24v system as well.

I look forward to see how you go :)
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 26, 2018, 09:35:11 PM
At this stage, the 24v red/white light is still in place. This may be replaced with a string of LEDs in the future - depends on how often my head collides with it.  {Edit} I am keeping the red/white interior light but have relocated it to the side.

24v Dist Box Mod
This morning I cleaned up the 24v battery hold-down clamps, wire brushed the rust down and gave them a coat paint. While they are drying I decided to work on the 24v distribution box.

Started by unbolting the dist box from the bulkhead and then removing the backing plate. I used one of the mounting holes for the 24v->13.8v 20A converter and added a 5mm aluminium nutcert for the second securing bolt. It ends up just below the edge of the dist box, so does not interfere with the assembly. After installing an XT60 connector to the 13.8v output, connected the 24v input to the +ve output bus and common -ve bus. Whilst it was open I added a 4mm cable to the same bus connectors and ran it down the top channel of the passenger side bulkhead to the rear of the tub. This is where a 24v socket will go for the fridge.

While I was fiddling with cables in the dist box, the one of the big red cables fell out of the top of the 100A circuit breaker. Without this fortunate event I would not have noticed that the top grub screw was loose. After removing the circuit breaker I re-secured the cables tightening the grub screw, and while at it, checked that all the terminals were secure.

Now it was ready to put it back together. However, the face plate would not sit flush - something was in the way. The two pairs of 4mm cable which I added and the cable tie which I used to support them were between the back and circuit breaker. After a bit of judicious wire juggling I had created enough space for it to fit together again.
 

Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 28, 2018, 10:45:06 PM
Yesterday Spence visited the Roads & Maritime office and got her shiny new yellow plates. No hassle with an NSW blue slip supplied by FMA. Since I have at least another 3 years before she is eligible for Histeric registration, lucky I'm a pensioner.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 28, 2018, 11:02:21 PM
Now that the 24v system is all up and running and the 13.8v inverter installed, its time to get some radio coms installed. We are off on a trip through the Brindies tomorrow, with a small group of AMEC members, to familiarise ourselves with this new piece of kit off-road, so it would be nice to at least have UHF CB operative. So I installed a cheap little Chinese transceiver programmed for 80ch UHF. Since the power came from behind, the Styer rack was a convenient location to mount the radio - also keeps the speaker close to the driver's ear.

Next was the issue of antennas and mounts. For ease of installation I chose the driver side aerial mount. Cut and drilled a piece of 6mm aluminium and mounted a spring with SO259 connector on the top. I could not find a 477MHz antenna in my collection, but after trialing several dual band antennas, which I had lying around, found one which was OK on 477MHz and left it in place.  Now at least I can chat with the rest of the convoy. Later I will look at installing a mount for an HF antenna and tuner.


Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on April 29, 2018, 07:45:50 PM
Took Spence out on her first off-road trip today - a pleasant Sunday drive with a handful of AMEC friends through the Brindies. Mount Corree for morning tea and a magnificent view across the top of the clouds 360 degrees around, playing with Low and High ratio as well as the centre diff lock. Then to McIntyres for lunch and back home down Doctors Flat and Sawyers Gully.

Appart from a 2cm sidewall tear in the drivers side front tyre, all worked as well as could be expected.

As we approached home, down came the rain. A great opportunity to check the state of the canvas and associated seals. After 15 minutes of heavy rain, water was dripping in at a great rate of knots over the passenger door. After another few minutes, the roof over the cabin was saturated. Looks like we need to look into proofing the canvas.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 06, 2018, 12:43:55 AM
Wednesday turned out to be a reasonably productive day. It started with a trip to BFC to pick up 5L of Aqua Proof and a drop-in to Bunnings for a Cyclone 4WD spade and some matching epoxy paint for the axe head and mattock. Then on return the work started:
1. Wash down the canvas with 100ml of chlorine bleach in 4 litres of water, and rinse off after 15 min;
2. Application of copper sulfate (2 table spoons in 3 litres of water), and dry - lucky it was a sunny day with a fair breeze;
3. Application of Aqua Proof. I ended up consuming about 2.5l for complete coverage.
then tested the result in Thursday's rain. Yahoo - no saturated canvas.

The photo belows shows the off-side half still wet with Aqua Proof. The roof is already half dry. When fully dry the already seriously faded canvas assumes just a little more colour, and now water pearls on its surface.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: STDDIVER on May 06, 2018, 02:51:56 PM
Great thread DetV - enjoy the post!

STDDIVER
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 10, 2018, 10:15:43 PM
Time to play with the 24v distribution box again.  Since Engel and Waeco fridges power cords are are terminated with Merit connectors (convertible cigarette lighter), I have decided to use Merit connectors for general purpose 24v devices and I will distribute a few in strategic locations around the vehicle. My Merit sockets arrived on Monday, so Tuesday I installed my first - replacing the 2Amp Cannon connector on the 24v distribution box.

The Merit socket fits in the low current socket hole without modification. I also upgraded the wiring slightly and will use a 7.5A fuse.


Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 10, 2018, 10:38:40 PM
The top right side 24v Cannon socket had previously been overheated, so I replaced it with a 2 pin 25Amp aviation circular desk connector. Unfortunately I only had a male socket (easily shorted if open) so the plan is to leave the plug installed with a short fly lead and a blue XT60 plug on the end, using blue ones for 24v circuits.

I plan to replace another of the 24V Cannon sockets with a Y36M-4TK female socket (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331623585983) and another with a dual port USB 5v socket (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5V-4-2A-Dual-2USB-Charger-Socket-Adapter-Power-Outlet-for-12V-24V-Car-Motorcycle/222822264219?)

Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: kman on May 11, 2018, 07:59:15 AM
Just as a matter of interest, The Zastone D9000 VHF/UHF Mobile transceiver works out of the box on 12 or 24 Volts. It is the only such radio I have ever come across.

Howard
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 11, 2018, 01:02:31 PM
Thanks for the advice kman. The Zastone D9000 looks like an excellent option for a dual bander. I also like the LF & HF receive capability so I could listen to ABC RN while on the road. Now to work out where to mount the control head. 

Attended the GARC on Wednesday and took a 70cm/2m antenna on a mag mount sitting on the axe tool mount. VK2PET used my FT90R like a handset while he worked some fellow GARC members testing coverage along the Hume Hwy between Goulburn and Yass. We were travelling at highway speed. I'll definitely need a headset to overcome the noise in this Perentie.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 11, 2018, 01:20:27 PM
Today's task is to wire up a couple of spotties and a light bar. Starting with a thumb sketch for the circuit which I will use.
The plan is to mount the relays against the port fender and run the 12v feed all the way into the battery compartment where I will mount a fuse block, and run the 24v feed along the conduit for the 24v geni and back to the 24v distribution box. Lead to the switches will go trough the firewall on the port side and I'll remove the passenger grab handle to access the back of the console.

Now for a quick trip to Jaycar for a couple of toggle switches, another relay and some 4mm cable.
 
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 13, 2018, 05:33:25 PM
Yesterday I installed a 175 Amp Anderson connector on the front of the battery box. This is to avoid the need to open the battery box to use jumper leads. New leads on order and a couple of spare Anderson connectors ready to apply to them.

The primary purpose was to install a fuse holder and cable for my driving lights, so of course that went in as well. Not sure what the other four circuits will be used for as yet.

Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 13, 2018, 05:50:31 PM
Last week I saw an advertisement for an 85Watt light bar, two 100Watt HID spotties and four 32Watt work lights for under $200 delivered - how could I resist??

Today I completed the driving lights installation. To keep the circuitry simple I decided to run both the light bar and spotties from the 12v system, but with still with independent control on each, so I attacked Jaycar yesterday and brought home a couple of 30Amp relays, a couple of toggle switches, 3 metres of 5.5 sq  mm cable and a fuse block.

I mounted the driving light control switches on the drivers side of the FFR Ammeter/hour-meter console - nice easy reach - and used the -ve pole of the aux power socket as the earth return.  (On the other side of this console will go a USB power supply - but that's another story.

On testing I found two problems:
1. Only the port side spottie fired up. I had inserted the connector on the light back-to-front so reversing the polarity - FIXED; and
2. The light bar relay would not activate. A close look at the photo of the relays below will show that the blue wire had come out of the space connector on the right relay - FIXED.

All lights working as they should be. Now I just have to check the alignment.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 14, 2018, 02:21:11 PM
Finished the USB charger installation in the FFR Ammeter/Hour meter console this morning.  Unfortunately I failed to check the location of the back of the hour meter and drilled my hole where the USB charger interfered with the hour meter. So drilled a now hole a little further back and plugged my mistake with a rubber grommet.

For power I used a tap off the inspection light socket, however, my USB chargers have LEDs so I would prefer a circuit which is ignition switched - when I find a suitable feed I'll move it, but for now:
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 14, 2018, 02:25:38 PM
The parcel delivery guy was good to me today. He delivered new jumper leads, a pair of red 175A Anderson connectors and a surface mount cigarette lighter connector.  I mounted a Merit plug in the surface mount adapter and connected it to the 24v cable I had previously run down the port side channel. Now I have a power outlet for my fridge at the back corner of the vehicle, and a set of jumper leads split with Andersons.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: craigb on May 14, 2018, 03:25:24 PM
It's coming along nicely... and giving me a few ideas for my own electrickery mods ;-)
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 14, 2018, 09:01:02 PM
My new 24v->12v 40Amp inverter arrived late last week, so it was time to add it to the back of the 24v dist box alongside the 24v->13.8v 20Amp unit. I sourced these on Aliiexpress and am delighted with the results of some superficial tests.  The 13.8v 20Amp unit had no difficulty delivering 18Amp to my IC-769Pro transceiver, with a voltage drop to 13.2v. Looking forward to loading up the 12v 40Amp unit.

I wanted these inverters to be isolated with the big switch on the 24v dist box, as well as protecting them with a fuse. So I drilled a 13mm hole in the front of the dist box, between the two input sockets, and installed a festoon fuse holder. So I now have a 30Amp fuse between the top of the 100Amp circuit breaker and three bullet connectors (one for each of the inverters and one for the rear Merit socket.  - Now where is that white Letterset which I used 30 years ago to label my electronics project panels??

Unfortunately the bottom of the 100Amp circuit breaker broke (just fell apart in my hands boss!). It all still works and is held securely enough by the top mounting screw, but would be nice to replace with an intact unit some time in the future.

In the pic below, the aluminium heat sink on the left is the new 12v40A unit and on the right the 13.8v20A.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: craigb on May 15, 2018, 12:38:31 PM
Coming along nicely!

I notice you've refitted the cannon socket housing on your box and that they have new caps? You still using merits and a USB for input and output in the place of the 3-pin cannon sockets?

I bought some white lettersets on a sheet off ebay a while back, unfortunately at around 7 or 8mm high, the font size is a bit too big for my liking. I'm going the path of least resistance with my lettering, which is plastic raised embossed dymo labels, painted green like the box and then rubbed back lightly so the white of the lettering shows through nicely.

Cheers!

Craig
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 15, 2018, 01:26:04 PM
Cannon socket housings and caps are still original. I have replaced one of the Cannon sockets with a 25Amp aviation socket (top right).

I have standardised on XT60 in-line connectors for all my DC appliances (blue for 24v & yellow for 12v). These are light and compact compared to clunky Andersons. (Although Andersons are good for surface mount and for interoperability with other users I have several adapters).

I intend to insert a USB charger in one of the Cannon socket housings. One Merits on the front panel plus one in the rear quarter are enough for my purpose.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 17, 2018, 09:40:58 AM
Yesterday I added (ARN): 204973 to the collection. Will pick it up along with 4 rims and 4 tyres from Minto on Tuesday 22 May. I'll have an empty FFR and only half full trailer if anyone in the Canberra/Yass region would like their stuff picked up PM me.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: Carzee on May 17, 2018, 12:11:54 PM
Good haul. I was so busy I flat out forgot about the auction.

The Anderson plug power points are an idea I plan to make use of. What do you think of using them to power the twin ARB air compressor-in-a-ammo-box?
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 17, 2018, 12:59:43 PM
I use XT60 connectors for my appliances and for extension leads, finding the Andersons too clunky. However, XT60s are only useful as in-line connectors.  To power my compressor, I have made up an adapter cable from the 175A Anderson to XT60. I can also then power it off the XT60 on my 24v->12v 40A inverter.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 17, 2018, 01:54:09 PM
My XT60s and Anderson 175 adapter.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 17, 2018, 01:57:41 PM
The delivery man brought me another pressie today. Now I need NATO to 7pin plat adapter so I can tow my civvy gal trailer - any suggestions? I have got a spare 7pin flat and 7pin round, just need a NATO trailer plug.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: AGAS 5 on May 18, 2018, 10:00:15 AM
Det, FYI. The rim with the red painted XXX is likely stuffed.  Get it checked out prior to use.

Cheers.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 18, 2018, 03:15:28 PM
Thanks for the note AGAS 5.  I want 2 rims for additional spares - the other is a bonus if OK.

On another matter, now I can tow my civvy gal trailer.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 22, 2018, 10:40:06 PM
Did the Minto run today to pickup these:
And I was delighted to find that, like the Perentie, the trailer also had a 6009 christmas tree. Old mates back together.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 26, 2018, 08:35:15 PM
When Aldi knocked $20 off their $69 awning - how could I resit. Trying it out on Spence. Not terribly "authentic" looking, but it might by do the trick.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 28, 2018, 05:29:56 PM
A few weeks ago I ordered a Defender Under Console Safe (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Runner-Land-Rover-Defender-Under-Console-Safe-MkII/302615652650) by Front Runner. The supplier was out of stock at the time, but since I scored a 20% discount, agreed to wait for the backorder to come through. The box arrived today so I proceeded with the installation.

Unfortunately the installation was not straight forward since the Steyr mount is in a slightly larger hole than of the standard Defender's. I overcame this issue by attaching some 25x20mm aluminium angle around the box to create a flange which then completely covered the hole. I could use the two side screw holes of the Steyr mount to hold the side flanges against the floor, plus added two holes for PK screws across the front flange.

To keep the box secure, I created four toggles using aluminium angle and installed M5 nutserts (rivet captive nuts). These swivel around on the internal mount holes of the safe and clamp it to the floor plates.

When I find some drab olive I'll give it all a coat of paint.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: Carzee on May 28, 2018, 05:49:53 PM
That console security box is fitted pretty good in the end. Good for travel documents and things - does the lip have a rubber seal to keep things dry or dustproof?
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: Dervish on May 28, 2018, 06:41:06 PM
No seal on them, they don't really need it.

It's a long time ago now, but I'm sure mine came with nutserts on the top to fit the cubby box back on?
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on May 28, 2018, 08:08:38 PM
A adhesive backed foam seal is provided with the box. I used thin double sided adhesive tape between the aluminium angle and the box to seal that, as well as help hold it in place while drilling and riveting. Even with the Steyr rack screws and toggle clamps the buckles in the floor were not completely pulled out and there are still a few tiny gaps at the back. When I get my cans of drab olive I might reinstall with the foam seal - let's see how much dust ingress we get without it.

The box is also supplied with nutserts, bolts and washers for both the bottom mounting and to re-install a cubby box on top, however, I have no intention of mounting a cubby box - that's where the dog's pillow goes.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on June 02, 2018, 01:32:31 PM
Next Enhancement - Battery Isolation
I've installed a USB chargers which includes an LED volt meter, but at the time of installation I could not find a convenient ignition switched circuit for it. I'm likely to install more devices in the future which draw ambient current, so to avoid draining the battery during extended lay-overs, I decided that a battery isolation switch would be the go - and then it may as well be lockable, so here is the result:
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on September 15, 2018, 01:47:20 PM
Been a while since my last post - took a break from the FFR by towing an A'van around the country behind the Prado for a few months, plus a bit of time up the snow.
Anyhow, it's now time to get cracking on 51-490 again. With a WICEN event coming up in early Oct, providing remote area comms support for the Hume & Hovell Ultra Marathon, priority was on making Spence sleepable plus getting the power storage up to scratch.

New 24v Battery Set
I finally gave up trying to source batteries to match the originals, so relented and got a pair of lower cost, more readily available D70Zs. Since the battery compartment is directly above the muffler, to tolerate the heat, I chose standard lead-acid deep cycle batteries. The D70Zs are the same width as the originals, however, approx 40mm shorter. So I had a piece of angle welded onto the original battery holder to enable it to clamp onto the new batteries. I also added a block of 40mm x 18mm pine to the back end of the base to stop the batteries sliding back.

Here is the result:
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on September 15, 2018, 02:03:30 PM
Flat platform in the FFR
I have been considering options for a flat platform in the back of the FFR. The easiest, and probably lowest cost, would be a sheet of form ply across the lot. With this option I could not see how I could easily access the storage space underneath. Another criterion was to be able to easily restore Spence to the way it was used in Army service.
I decided to construct two boxes out of 12mm plywood. On the passenger side I needed to allow up to 20cm additional space to accomodate my Waeco 60cft fridge. Here is what I ended up with:
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: Carzee on September 16, 2018, 08:22:42 AM
Nice work. I think Stevie may re-do his after seeing yours later today.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on September 16, 2018, 08:33:37 AM
For anyone who may wish to replicate, here are the panel sizes I used for the boxes.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on October 07, 2018, 06:06:41 PM
Thought that 240v AC might be useful in Spence at some stage, so here is the latest edition:
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on October 07, 2018, 06:10:34 PM
The Cannon connector was sourced from Connector World. I purchased:
2x MS3106F20-19P @ $25 (in line plug), and
1x MS3108F20-19P @ $30 (90degree plug)
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on October 07, 2018, 06:20:39 PM
Then re-deployed some carpet runners to cover my boxes and the sides.
Title: Re: DetV's Shed
Post by: DetV on October 08, 2018, 10:49:20 PM
Today's Project - Water Bladder in FFR Radio Stand
A few days ago I took the plunge and ordered a 100 Litre Rectangle Plastimo Water Tank. The postie delivered it this morning so today's challenge was to work out how I can plumb this bladder into the FFR radio support box.  Well, after a lot of mucking around and reviewing numerous options, I found an orientation of the bladder which will allow its installation. The key issue is to be able to locate the inlet and outlet in a clear panel. The only orientation which works in the FFR is with the inlet near centre of the box and the outlet approx 15cm from the back and 15cm from the driver side. Once I verified that it could be fitted, it was time to visit my favourite plumbing supplier to get the bits I will need to connect the bladder to a filler inlet and a tap on the rear.

The inlet and outlet of this bladder both need 57mm holes - so I ran down to Bunnings for a 57mm hole saw.
The team at Southern Plumbing accepted my challenge to help me work out what plumbing bits and pieces I could use to achieve my goal.

Following the hole drilling and assembly I tested the setup by inflating the bladder with a high volume air pump. With a few PSI in the bladder my detergent dipped paintbrush failed to identify any leaks. So, it was time to fill it with water. Initially I filled through the 25mm filler hose, however, the air which I previously pumped into the bladder came out in massive gulps. I changed the approach and completed the filling through the outlet tap allowing all the air out without conflicting with water.

The box dimensions are approx 90cm x 55cm x 22cm, that is approx 108 litres. This bladder lies flat at 107cm x 70cm and inflates to 25cm high. Not too bad a fit.  Considering the framework and other obstructions inside the box, I am hopeful of filling the bladder to near 80 litres. Anyhow, even if I only get 60 litres in there it will be a bonus.

[edit 15/10/18] Filled the bladder through the outlet tap until water spilled out through the breather tube. Then emptied the bladder through the outlet tap and measured 65 litres. Happy with that.