Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers

REMLR General => REMLR - General Chatter => Topic started by: FFRMAN on July 25, 2012, 03:26:37 PM

Title: Rust proofing
Post by: FFRMAN on July 25, 2012, 03:26:37 PM
Hi,

I have been told a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and Diesel makes a good rust proofing mix to spray on the underneath/chassis etc and even run into holes in chassis. Apparently the fisherman use this mix on all their equipment to stop the sea water rusting things up.

Does anyone have an opinion, is it safe on rubbers/hoses/seals etc

Regards
Scott
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: juddy on July 25, 2012, 04:03:25 PM
We used to use a product call Waxoil in the UK...
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: rotor1 on July 25, 2012, 04:24:02 PM
Can you get wax oil in OZ??
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: juddy on July 25, 2012, 06:18:01 PM
I believe you can.......

Theres also the Fish Oil products here that are supposed to be Ok, I think the UK stuff is probably very good, the product is designed for the harsh UK conditions, lots of salt, etc.
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: FFRMAN on July 25, 2012, 06:56:17 PM
Hi, yeah plenty of commercial products out there but I was more interested in making my own, I can buy linseed oil for about $8/litre and Diesel for $1.50/litre so cost is only $4.75 a litre when mixed 50/50, at this price I can afford to use heaps everywhere. Compare this price with commercial rust inhibitors!

But the question is; is it safe to use on all components i.e. rubber etc

Regards
Scott
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: Chazza on July 28, 2012, 12:25:02 PM
The deisolene being a petro-chemical, will soften rubber components. The Linseed diesolene mix will be incredibly messy and take a long time to dry, so every bit of sand and dirt will stick to it. Whether it does the job, or not, I can't say.

I did a 12 month trial with test-pieces and controls on rusty sheet-metal in my garden, using Lanox; Fishoilene; Penetrol and Ballistol. The only test piece which looked as good as the day it started the trial was the Penetrol one. All the rest went rusty surprisingly quickly and I am still trying to give away my tin of Fishoilene. I should point out that Penetrol should be painted over according to the directions but the unpainted Penetrol sample only had a small speck of orange rust after 12 months!

I tried to buy Waxoyl and one other European brand - whose name eludes me - but I found only one agent in Adelaide and they couldn't supply what I wanted!

Use Pentrol and know that it works!

Cheers Charlie
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: FFRMAN on July 28, 2012, 01:00:17 PM
Thanks Chazza, fantastic advice, I'll look into the penetrol option.

Thanks
Scott
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: Polizei on July 28, 2012, 07:51:36 PM
I have been using penetrol for little bits and pieces. Now that I think about it Chazza may have been the one that put me on to it.

It goes on very easily. You can probably spray it into the chassis through the holes also??

Bunnings sells it here in Adelaide.

One question regarding the penetrol. Does anyone know if it will affect the ability of the Protec Camouflage green to stick? I may have a problem here if it does...
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: korg20000bc on July 28, 2012, 08:21:16 PM

One question regarding the penetrol. Does anyone know if it will affect the ability of the Protec Camouflage green to stick? I may have a problem here if it does...
I used Penetrol extensively in my 2a restoration and painted the Protec camo green enamel over the top straight from a pressure pack and it has been an excellent result.  I suspect that if you painted/sprayed straight Penetrol as a rust inhibitor then mixed the enamel with penetrol and sprayed through a gun, you would have an even better result.
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: Polizei on July 29, 2012, 05:20:48 PM
That is good to hear!
Title: Re: Rust proofing
Post by: Chazza on July 31, 2012, 08:36:35 AM
Korg is quite correct in that Penetrol can be mixed with some paints and that the manufacturer Flood Australia actually recommend this, to extend the life of the paint; to increase flowability and to give better gloss. Google Flood Penetrol and have a read of their superb website.

In my trial half of the rusty test pieces were sanded down to a bright steel finish, whilst the other half were heavy surface rust. Interestingly the bright-steel Penetrol piece did rust all over eventually, but it lasted in good condition for about 3 months, whereas all of the others were suffering badly. This was not how the manufacturer recommended to do things I should add; their advice is to remove loose scale and apply Penetrol to the rust and repeat until the surface goes shiny and then to apply paint over the top.

I too will use it as a rust preventer sprayed inside the chassis,

Cheers Charlie